The surf at Croyde on Saturday was a twentieth of the size of this Irish Leviathan. The unlucky sop that is about to get the drubbing of his life would have been experiencing a variety of emotions at this point… fear, consternation at his predicament, anger with himself and just maybe ..a sense of liberty.It sounds crazy I know but sometimes when you have paddled as hard as you can and it just is n’t enough because of your own limitations or the situation, you feel as though you have given your all. There is a liberation in giving your all. On the other hand this was probably only the most fleeting of emotions as he got thrashed with his face pressed hard to the reef.
As I say Croyde was a gentle1 to 2 feet. I managed a few waves and got out after the tide turned. I felt set free after many weeks out of the water. Set free from the those crazy winds and conditions that I cannot influence.My sense of exemption was the only thing I have in common with the ghastly scene above.