Thirteen Pleasures.


  • Tom Carroll’s crouched tube riding stance.
  • Bacon sandwiches.
  • Rock pools.
  • The girls welcome when I return home from expeditions.
  • The sound of rain drumming on glass.
  • The birds.Scorn masked by hilarity at my hero’s frequent blunders.
  • Ruddles ale.
  • Watching my daughter learning to surf.
  • Concrete pool coping.
  • Don Juan’s Reckless Daughter by Joni Mitchell.
  • John Irving’s novels.
  • Surfing my quad fish at overhead left point breaks.
  • Warm sun.