Does it strike you as strange that this august North Devonian organ of things skatey and surfy has so few pictures of waves and surfers? It does me too. To make amends I will post a few photographs and paintings in the coming few weeks of lineups and action shots.
The lineup above is one of England’s premier reef breaks, Porthleven. The main break viewed from across the harbour channel looks to be breaking as good as it gets. My own history with this break is regrettably brief. I first visited in the mid 1980’s mainly during the mid week. The idea was to avoid the crowds. On reflection this tactic had merit but suffered from a major flaw. There was no swell at all on my first two visits. Eventually I got to surf the wave in some reasonable conditions but never really at any great size. I have not surfed there for over a decade. My last surf was in the best conditions I had experienced there , miraculously hitting it when the tide and rising swell surprised the locals. Strangely though I have no real drive to return despite all the great pictures I have seen of it over the decades. The oxygen of publicity and the fact it is a right breaking wave are probably the main factors why I have no motivation to take another look but I also feel snubbed by the break. She did not succumb to my overtures during my first two visits. Stupid pride.