Shorebreak


Shorebreak

I love a good slamming from a brutal shorebreak as much as the next man but this one looks to be on another level.The vortices in the wave face look like the ghosts of the porcelain coils you see in transformer stations. These structures channel immense  and inconceivable energy.The wave has the patina of road chippings and the dynamism of a speeding vehicle about to hit a wall. Made up of 50 percent sand and 50 percent water,  it will plunge into the few inches depth of shorepond and explode  with a ferocity that would humble all of the All Black scrums in history. The guy about to cop a beating  will inevitably  float to the surface in little pieces? No … we all know you survive this stuff. True he will take some gas and will find sand in every orifice for weeks to come. His board will snap or get mashed or his leash will snap but he will survive.

So why is is it that I managed to pull a calf muscle while slowly trotting back from a frigid but gentle session this week?