I had a short but blissful session at the point yesterday. Blue sky’s, glassy conditions, a fairly light crowd and some reasonably sized waves all summed up as a day to remember. Best of all I got one of ‘those’ waves. You know the one that you remember for a while.. Only just over head height , it had little to recommend it as I took off but it grew and steepened as I went down the line on my faithful 6′ 3” Gulfstream 21/2 fin. The wave lends its self to fades and slashing cut backs and the occasional off the top. This one bent to my every whim. A small close-out cover up on the inside in front of the ‘gully of death’ (Exaggeration, the inseparable companion of greatness: Ed/Voltaire) pushed me back to land and Christmas lists of things to do and get.
Thanks to FV for the snaffled shot of the Haunted House and the end section..