Bucks Mill


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I made the re-acquaintance  of this spot today. The conditions were only slightly better than those shown in the photo above but damn , I enjoyed myself.

The high wooded cliffs and towering abandoned lime kilns on the shore give this stretch of coast a heightened atmosphere. The long paddle out to the lineup lent me the opportunity to look along the coast towards Clovelly and the ‘Look Out’ cliff beyond. Is there a break behind that rock or is it my wishful thinking?

The spot itself is a strange affair. Waves break a quarter mile out to sea and roll along a long finger of rock. There was not one soul visible when I looked back from the break to the cliff line. I sat on my board , battered by the strong south westerly and bathed in the utter sense of peace that this place always exudes to me.

Just as well really. I have only surfed this spot three times and not at all for the last ten years. The break can only be placed in the ‘unusual’  category by all but the most beneficent surfer. Nevertheless I will return.

I’m going to take a break from this blogging lark, dear reader but as I have already said…I will return.

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