The ironically named P-land delivered typical fare yesterday evening. Close outs, waves that back off, promising peaks that seem to recede to the horizon, punishing paddle outs and very short rides. Putsbourgh does have many redeeming qualities , the clean water, the cliff line of Baggy Point, shelter afforded by the cliffs from the prevailing winds and the view down to Woolacombe being but a few of them but it has to be said that the quality of the surf is not one of them. True, on my first visit more than 15 years ago I experienced a memorable session which mainly included long looping left running barrels. I remember coming out after dark and receiving some compliments for my surfing. At the time it seemed the place for me, I moved to North Devon not long after. Unfortunately this was one of two times that I experienced such conditions. The real P-land revealed it’s tawdry self in the years and months that followed. Perhaps because of my first experience I still enter the water here with hope in my heart but it is so rarely justified.
G-land or Gradgagan, P-land’s Indonesian cousin has long looping left running barrels most days of the year. The water is clear and it is 18°C warmer than P-land is currently. Need I say more?
The snap above is of a surfer about to jump in the rip that runs along the base of the cliffs. He will be sucked out into the lineup without too much energy lost from paddling and duck diving. Arriving in the lineup he will look at the lines of swell and feel optimistically about the remaining light hours of the evening. He does not yet realize that the stoke and joy will be squeezed from him during his session and he will return to shore a depressed and beaten man. Why is it he will undoubtedly return for the same treatment again just as I and many others do?
Double click on the photo to feel the quality.