I read in a surf comic a while ago that Mr Lopez (above) ,accompanied by a group of younger pro surfers, went on a boat trip to the Isles of Mentawai. After a four hour session at an off shore reef pass he paddled over to the skiff that was already occupied by some of the younger but less fit luminaries. His slim shoulders tired by the session of multiple tube rides,long paddles and steep drops heaved his light frame over the gunwales and landed him lightly onto both feet. Anyone who has tried to clamber onto any small craft from the water will know what a herculean task this can be when tired. To execute it with grace and style rather than the likely alternative, which is to flop onto the craft like a flapping Halibut, is an act of a supreme athlete. Mr Lopez had already entered his 6 th decade at this time. Snowboarder, dirt biker, yogi and supreme surfer…what’s his secret?
I wish I knew. Jerry has never suffered a continually sore back from one nights camping. He heals quickly and would never be so stupid as to aggravate a gripe by doing some light swimming and cycling before it is healed. He would meditatively dismiss the discomfort and move forward fruitfully by martialling chi from this unusual (to him) life event. The rest of us (meaning you :Ed) just moan about and suffer from the foibles presented by our gently decaying bodies. I’m off for more back rub.