Swell arrived at the North Devon coast today (pictured). It’s been a very, very long time since we received a groundswell over 6 inches. I floored it after work. Dived in and spent an eternity paddling out. Very meagre pickings from a two and a half hour session.
All the usual stuff crowds in on me after sessions like this one. Take up long boarding,just release the middle aged spread, drink less ale or surf at Saunton.
Bollocks to all of that. Surf to survive
Controversial Z-boy , Jay Adams died
Tom Curren still can surf at 50