Swell arrived at the North Devon coast today (pictured). It’s been a very, very long time since we received a groundswell over 6 inches. I floored it after work. Dived in and spent an eternity paddling out. Very meagre pickings from a two and a half hour session.
All the usual stuff crowds in on me after sessions like this one. Take up long boarding,just release the middle aged spread, drink less ale or surf at Saunton.
Bollocks to all of that. Surf to survive
Controversial Z-boy , Jay Adams died
Iconic Z-boy Shogo Kubo died two months before.
Tom Curren still can surf at 50
The water moved around this winter
It did n’t in the spring and summer
There is so much to look forward to.
Montgomery ‘Buttons’ Kaluhiokalani has died from lung cancer. He was the most underrated surfer.Bestowed with a physical genius that is only now starting to be appreciated. He had quite a back story but I will always remember his surfing in the surf flicks from the late 70s and early 80s. He was doing something so different to his more competitively orientated peers. A sad loss and a great name.
Scary Basque action at the hallowed river mouth.
Ironicaly my trip to the Golden state at the end of the summer has resulted in fairly severe slackening of my motivation to skate. The quality of the terrain in the UK is the issue. The last pool I skated in the states was this one (below). Eleven feet deep, perfect transitions , silky surfaces and pool coping. I left my favourite skateboard here due to fuzzy headed exhaustion but looking back I can n’t help but feel this was prophetic.
There are no pools or bowls that come close in comparison in the UK. The combi bowl at Shoreham is the nearest in terms of quality and dimensions by some distance.I think a few months out will do me me some good.Boarding on water will as always be my escape and focus.Come on Huey the hyped ‘hurricane’ has only sent some wind blown unsurfable waves. We know here is more in your locker!
I spotted this on the inspirational MR’s blog.’This photo was taken at Merewether Beach in the early 1990′s. ‘I am riding a 6’2″ 20 1/4″ by 2 3/4″ Twin Fin. ‘
This has gotten the grey cells racing. Mr Richards is one of the truly great performance surfers of all time. He surfed on ,and still does, boards of dimensions (thickness and width) that would just make the current performance surfer smile.Surely the logs that he surfs on do not have the facility to feel out the wave face as your typical 6’0″ 18 1/4″ by 2 3/8 shortboard does today? Of course MR is a shaper of great repute too. Would another shaper be able to produce a board for a surfer of significantly less ability that would perform?
I’m going to find out….when I have some spare cash.