Montgomery ‘Buttons’ Kaluhiokalani has died from lung cancer. He was the most underrated surfer.Bestowed with a physical genius that is only now starting to be appreciated. He had quite a back story but I will always remember his surfing in the surf flicks from the late 70s and early 80s. He was doing something so different to his more competitively orientated peers. A sad loss and a great name.
Scary Basque action at the hallowed river mouth.
Ironicaly my trip to the Golden state at the end of the summer has resulted in fairly severe slackening of my motivation to skate. The quality of the terrain in the UK is the issue. The last pool I skated in the states was this one (below). Eleven feet deep, perfect transitions , silky surfaces and pool coping. I left my favourite skateboard here due to fuzzy headed exhaustion but looking back I can n’t help but feel this was prophetic.
There are no pools or bowls that come close in comparison in the UK. The combi bowl at Shoreham is the nearest in terms of quality and dimensions by some distance.I think a few months out will do me me some good.Boarding on water will as always be my escape and focus.Come on Huey the hyped ‘hurricane’ has only sent some wind blown unsurfable waves. We know here is more in your locker!
I spotted this on the inspirational MR’s blog.’This photo was taken at Merewether Beach in the early 1990′s. ‘I am riding a 6’2″ 20 1/4″ by 2 3/4″ Twin Fin. ‘
This has gotten the grey cells racing. Mr Richards is one of the truly great performance surfers of all time. He surfed on ,and still does, boards of dimensions (thickness and width) that would just make the current performance surfer smile.Surely the logs that he surfs on do not have the facility to feel out the wave face as your typical 6’0″ 18 1/4″ by 2 3/8 shortboard does today? Of course MR is a shaper of great repute too. Would another shaper be able to produce a board for a surfer of significantly less ability that would perform?
I’m going to find out….when I have some spare cash.
It’s that time of year again.Swells have started to move in with some regularity. The weak windswells of the summer have shifted stage left for groomed groundswells but dammit the evenings are drawing in with the synchronicity that our seasons seem to impose upon us in these sceptred isles.
The dawnie is the only option other than the weekends for working class surfers around the globe during the dark months. In urban California this must mean joining countless grumpy commuters in a quickie before rejoining the highway . In the Shire it involves a more solitary half awake ramble down some mossy paths in a sharp wind followed by a ‘f*ckit I’m here now anyway’ type decision to surf the less than optimal conditions that frequently bely magicseaweed’s predictions. The autumnal setting back of the clocks only means that this self imposed torture can continue well into the winter. For me this aspect of my solitary pursuit is one of the most unpleasant but ultimately rewarding times. It is hard to describe the triumph of squeaking into work just on time having seen the sun rise and ridden a few overhead reef waves.
Image courtesy of Damian Fulton