Swell arrived at the North Devon coast today (pictured). It’s been a very, very long time since we received a groundswell over 6 inches. I floored it after work. Dived in and spent an eternity paddling out. Very meagre pickings from a two and a half hour session.
All the usual stuff crowds in on me after sessions like this one. Take up long boarding,just release the middle aged spread, drink less ale or surf at Saunton.
Bollocks to all of that. Surf to survive
Controversial Z-boy , Jay Adams died
Tom Curren still can surf at 50
Montgomery ‘Buttons’ Kaluhiokalani has died from lung cancer. He was the most underrated surfer.Bestowed with a physical genius that is only now starting to be appreciated. He had quite a back story but I will always remember his surfing in the surf flicks from the late 70s and early 80s. He was doing something so different to his more competitively orientated peers. A sad loss and a great name.